The Shop: Bullnose Tile
Granite tiles do not come with a finished or polished edge, which can leave a rough area on the edge of the counter. Countertops are also typically much thicker than a single tile, which means the front edge of the counter must also be finished as well.
Several methods are available for finishing the edge of a granite tile counter. A bullnosed edge is a slightly rounded, finished edge that gently curves downward. By installing this tile slightly over the edge of the counter, you can place a vertical cut piece on the front of the counter; the bullnosed edge will cover the top of this piece, finishing the entire edge at once. Bullnose the granite tile right on site with a tile wet saw fitted with a bullnose blade.The bullnose blade is a rounded blade that will grind off the edge of the tile. Just push the edge of the granite into the blade several times to achieve the bullnose edge. Select a molding that is at least as wide as the counter is thick, taking into consideration the thickness of the granite. Glue the edge down first using wood glue, then sink finish nails into it to help secure it in place. Stain the edge the same color as the cabinets to help blend it in with the rest of the kitchen. Choose a decorative molding that picks up one of the colors in the granite or in the backsplash tile to coordinate it.
Use thinset mortar to secure the moldings to the front edge of the counter, covering the unfinished edge of the granite tiles and the counter’s front. Secure a 2-inch-wide board below the edge with clamps to help hold the heavy decorative railing in place while the thinset dries for 48 hours.
Part of the metal strip will install below the front granite tile laid on the counter. The visible portion of the strip will curve out from under the granite and down over the front of the counter. Choose a finish that is already present in the kitchen for the most cohesive look. This high-performance bullnose puts the finishing. .. With a large selection of sizes and accessories to choose from it can easily be laid in a pattern or single layout. With a large selection of sizes and accessories to choose from ivory can easily be laid in a pattern or single layout. With a large selection of sizes and accessories to choose from noche can easily be laid in a pattern or single layout. This particular travertine is suitable for residential and commercial installations.
.. Adapters & hardware to run electric or pneumatic. .. But you can have granite countertops for half that cost (or even less) by using granite tile instead of professionally installed granite slabs.
This article will show you how to install these special tiles.
Since a countertop sits just a couple of feet below eye level, minor mistakes are easy to see. So weÂ’ll show you how to set your tiles flat, even and perfectly aligned. This is a two-weekend project for a typical kitchen. YouÂ’ll spend about half that time tearing out your old countertop and creating a solid base for the tile. A countertop requires a bit more skill and precision than a wall or floor, so we donÂ’t recommend this as a first-time tile project. In addition to standard tile tools, youÂ’ll need to rent a tile saw for a day. You canÂ’t cut the tiles with a manual cutter. Aside from the tile, all the tools and materials youÂ’ll need are at home centers.
There are outside corners, premitered inside corners and standard bullnose tiles.
Special backsplash pieces are available too. The field tiles are just like standard granite floor tiles.
Measure, then sketch your countertop on graph paper, including the sink. Label the tiles (bullnose, field, corners) to assess whatÂ’s needed where. Because the tiles are color-matched before shipping, order a few extra to allow for cutting mistakes.
Three extra field tiles and two extra bullnose tiles is a safe allowance for a simple job, but for a complex project, you might want extra insurance. According to the manufacturer of our tiles, they can be installed directly onto an existing laminate countertop if the laminate is attached to a 3/4-in.-thick plywood substrate. Since the vast majority of countertops have a particleboard core, chances are youÂ’ll have to tear out your countertop and start from scratch. This coating prevents moisture from passing through the backer board and causing the plywood to swell or delaminate. Granite is difficult to mark clearly, so stick on some masking tape and mark the tape. Rub in a circular motion to avoid wearing a groove in the stone. Remove the tiles and use the map to put each tile back in the correct order later. Use this line as a guide as you set the front row of tiles.
Once the base is in place, youÂ’re set to start laying tile. Dry-fitting gives you time to experiment with the arrangement of the tiles so that the natural color and grain variations flow from one tile to the next. A dry run also lets you cut the tiles all at once and minimizes the total rental fee for the tile saw. Start the dry run from an inside corner and work outward so that the two mitered inside corner tiles fit together perfectly. Continue working out from the corner, laying a few bullnose tiles and filling in the back with field tiles.
That gives you plenty of time to set and adjust tiles before the thin-set becomes too stiff. Run the straightedge from the tester to the tile youÂ’re setting to check for flatness.
Align the tops and fronts of these tiles using a straightedge.
Support backsplash tiles with spacers to leave a 1/8-in. To prevent the tiles from sinking, aim for a peanut-butter-thick mix. Instead of fussing over each tile, lay two or three tiles at once, then treat them as a unit. As you proceed, rest the level on the first tiles youÂ’ve laid to help gauge the rest. After checking the height, nudge the straightedge against the bullnose edges to be sure the front edge stays straight and lines up with your guideline. Granite is tough stuff, but itÂ’s surprisingly easy to crack. To slide freshly set tiles, use your utility knife. Stab the point of the blade into the backer board, then lever the side of the blade against the bottom edge of the tile. Trying to tap down a high tile almost always causes a crack. Instead, try gently pressing and wiggling so the excess thin-set can squeeze out an open end. If that doesnÂ’t work, lift the tile and scrape away the excess thin-set.To prevent sliders, give your freshly tiled backsplash a day to cure before removing the spacers and packing the grout. But itÂ’s also great for tricky tile situations.
On this project, you set the front tiles first and then insert field tiles between them and the wall. The suction cup lets you set these tiles perfectly. Without it, youÂ’d have to drop the tiles into place, risking chipped edges.
Better yet, a suction cup saves the day when you notice a sunken tile thatÂ’s already surrounded by other tiles.
Putting A Half Round Bullnose On Marble Tile
I must apologize for the length of this video. I didn’t think I could cut it any further without leaving out important information that theÂ …
The ability to lift a tile straight up saves you the hassle of removing and resetting several neighboring tiles just to get at one sinker. A foam paint roller applies the sealer quickly and evenly. Once the graniteÂ’s in place, this job is like any other tiling project. Use a float to pack grout into most of the lines, but youÂ’ll probably need to use your finger to work grout into the curves, such as the bullnose front edge and the backsplash cap. Sponge off the excess when the grout begins to harden. Wait until the grout is fully dry before buffing off the remaining haze with a clean cotton towel. You can now reinstall the sink, stove and other appliances.