If you’re ready for a change and crave color, check out the next picture to see how adding a new hue to just the cabinets transformed this kitchen. Slab granite counters are literally sliced from quarries, cut to size, and honed down until they are smooth.

So we go to 3 different yards, talk to the distributors there, we look around and finally found a piece we really like. Wife disagrees but they may be willing to redo it if we buy another slab and at a low cost.

Wife wants it to be shiny and smooth, the places full counter sample we went to was way smoother than what we have. When my parents remodeled their kitchen they got a dark granite that needed to be touched up by the store before it could be cut and installed. May just be caulk but it’s on the cabinet, plus the sideslpash around the desk is definitely stuck to the wall. Anywhere there is a darker spot if you look at the right angle you can see the “crystal pit” and a lot of them you can feel but it’s like you said. We just replaced our kitchen counters and were going to go with granite before deciding on quartz simply for the deal. If you take a microfiber towel you can feel little tugs as you move it around but they are not huge gashes. If the areas are below the surface he should be able to fill it with a clear (or properly covered epoxy) and polish the surface again. They aren’t scratched, or dented, and they don’t have any marks from hot pots. It’s not noticeable unless you know it’s there, though it is slightly raised/swollen. I didn’t even consider wood countertops, although that would have been much more budget friendly than the our black quartz. Your countertops surely have gotten better with age, and it’s awesome that they’ll last a lifetime because they can be refinished!

We also love the look of butcher block it was a hard choice but we chose the tile for durability, thanks for the post.

Also for your stains try putting some regular salt on the stain and rub it in with a lemon. The cross cut of the wood grain is more porous and so it would likely absorb water more easily than the lengthwise cut following the grain of the wood on top of the counter.

We do have a seam right where the sink is because the butcher block pieces were not long enough and we had to seam two pieces together.

I have advised her to get a sit on sink rather than an undermounted one, not quite as good looking but avoids the problem of water on the end grain of the wood. I intended to put in my kitchen when we remodeled about 6 years ago, but they guys who were doing the cabinets and installing counters talked me out of it.

In addition, if your wood countertop has been sealed on the top with a plastic product instead of the permeating oil method, you will have potentially toxic leakage that you don’t want to leech into your food. For one thing, we had one in our co-op in the city for a decade before we moved and it looked the same when we left as the day we installed it.

I am very happy that the counters and the white cabinets we chose have stayed looking nice for so many years. Two–you should have used a top-mount sink so the end-grain around the wet area is not exposed. The ones that are getting to that soon-to-rot phase are jobbed out to lumber jacks–harvested–and used for furniture; flooring; and counters. If they are used according to their “purpose,” (a functional surface for carrying out kitchen work—not storage [appliance or whatever]) they are not “finished” at all, but treated to prevent staining and cracking—they are covered with (gasp) mineral oil whenever they start to bleach from cleaning.

The epoxy surface seems to tough enough for hot plate, abrasion from porcelain dishes, resistant to oil and water.

Which is, you already have too much sealer on the stone and it is “beading” up and what you are feeling is the small gritty balls of silicone. I don’t know whether to just be patient, as many have said it sort of works itself out, whether it is unresined (since there seems to be pits or divits in it), or whether there is too much sealer on it and it is beading up. Is it the sealer or something else that was no longer filling in what are now little pits?

I even waxed it, did everything you can imagine to nearly zero results, time and daily use are the answer to it eventually feeling “normal”. We did as instructed, and the grittiness got worse: just like throwing water onto unsealed wood/lumber and having the grain rise up!

But when we ran a razor over the surface, something was definitely ‘powdering’ up and onto the razor blade. Granted, the sample piece is a smaller surface area than my counters, and not every sq inch of my counters is gritty. If you need to economize however i’d choose the granite over the corian, especially as granite is more hard wearing than corian i believe. My wife would suggest marble, but in the absence of marble as a choice she would definitely choose quartz. I tried to get a few different angles since you said you were considering many of the same elements. To not be able to see them and place them in the countertops to best highlight their features is chancy. Undo miromostafa if all your cabinets are white except the island then i think it is best to use an absolute black granite on the white part to create a contrast . So we wanted a beautiful surface for the new island which is very large and the focal point of the whole design. There were lots of different white and grey with subtle gold or brown or red in quartzite. The texture isn’t smooth, but you’d probably always use a cutting board for food prep anyway. Corian is dated and ugly and granite is too much maintenance and dictates the style of the kitchen. Knife will not scratch your surface but moving cast-iron pan on your countertop probably will. Corian scratches easily and even though it can be buffed out, it can leave small indentions and also the cost of repairs. Corian doesn’t scratch very easily or burn as stated above, and any mishaps can be sanded out easily. Silestone, an engineered stone where actual quartz and adhesive are melded in a manufacturing facility, to be man-made. The fabricator is not prepared to replace the counter, since he feels he did nothing wrong.

Now he wants you to choose all the tile prior to seeing your slab and you don’t know where he gets his tile from. If he is pushing backsplash and not pushing granite it does not make sense. Granite would be my second choice because you can cut on it, doesn’t scratch, is easy to clean, does stain and needs to be resealed periodically. I guess my advice would be not to short change yourself in this important area because your countertops will be used every day.

Take the time to sand the surfaces until smooth, caulk as needed and try using pieces of a brown paper bag to “sand” between coats. Repurposing them by changing their color and focusing on other areas that’ll give you a big bang for your buck is a smart way to go. Beyond laminate, other inexpensive, easy-to-maintain surfaces include solid wood and butcher block countertops as well as ceramic tile countertops.

Caesarstone notes that 93% natural quartz aggregates are mixed with the remaining 7% of color pigments and polymer resins.

The counter tops feel rough, we clean them, they have a lot of crystal and pits and at the right angle it looks “scratched”, if you look at the other angle it looks like a shiny crystal. Says we picked out the slab so it’s our fault, however no one ever told us to look at the slab from all different angles and touch the entire slab to see if it feels rough. We did do research on the internet but apparently not enough or asked the wrong questions.

There’s no need to glue it, it weighs hundreds of lbs and is caulked to backsplash all the way around. Yeah the pics aren’t great, not sure why they are so blurry, any way no it is like a lot of tiny pin holes like you say but they are like ever few inches.

Maybe it would bother me more if it was in the kitchen, but what you have may be within the bounds of “normal” for that stone.

If they’re telling you gouges and irregularities in the finish are normal then that’s crap imo. Maybe they make some granite polish or pit sealer you can use yourself to make it smoother. He’s in the right about you being responsible for the slab choice, but he or the supplier should have maybe helped a bit more.

The odd thing is that other things with rubber feet, like my mixer, don’t leave marks.

And even though the wood around the sink is holding up great it still feels like a ticking time bomb. I love black with specks of sparkly mirror like chips inside and my husband wouldn’t want it any other way, so we’re finding other ways to layer in the wood look that we love (as well)!

I litter my kitchen with trivets for hot things, and goodness forbid anything sit on them for too long. I would say don’t worry too much, you know you’ll be sanding it down at some point anyway.

I am thinking that mounting the sink above the counter height rather than below may be helpful. Over time it rotted and split and we had to throw it out even though we put many coats of polyurethane on it. She is getting those sit on wooden chopping boards to go on top so her teenagers won’t forget to use a chopping board. I have waiting in my living room an under mount stainless steal sink, with a pull out house faucet (similar to yours). I use antimicrobrial plastic cutting boards — separate ones for different foods — and only use wood cutting boards to serve cheese.

It’s one thing to have an exotic wood floor that is 100 years old and another to have floors or countertops made of exotic woods that you just installed. So for an economical, beautiful and earth friendly alternative, butcher block is the way to go. One thing i would like to do is to router some drains leading to the sink like an old fashioned drain board. I don’t find it difficult at all to work on cutting boards and keep the counters wiped off. There are sugar maples that are a few hundred years old; but a lot of them make it to about 50 to 75 years and start to die off. I have marks from writing on a single piece of paper, and a couple areas with marks from my water jug that has nubs on the bottom. Please do not remove any watermarks, crop, or edit any images without first obtaining written permission from me.

The edges that they cut and polished do have that nice smooth finish, which makes me wonder why the surface would be so rough. Undo moqcca @ carolk318: this has happened to my granite as well, after many years though. I did have some relief in the beginning using steel wool in a circular motion all over it a couple of times but really it is just time that will do the most for it. The installer (not due back for a couple of days to put another coat down, since one coat still led to water absorption) told me it might just be surface dirt/dust, and to go ahead and wipe/rinse everything down with plain water and a lint free cloth. He couldn’t explain the grittiness, but said to definitely begin by using the correct product. Regarding not getting enough of the resin off, my understanding of resining is that it’s added to ‘stabilize’ (don’t know if that’s the technically correct word) the more brittle stones for transport, and that it isn’t a surface application. Fabricator re-stripped (following instructions meticulously) and left the counters to dry.

I would never have a counter fabricated without seeing the slab and understanding the layout. I really wanted something that picked up the other grey materials we had in our kitchen but didn’t want something that felt too cold or too stark. Ie: if you want the top half of the slab to be your island in a certain direction tape it off with specific instruction. Working with my fabricator, we were able to line up the veining so the join is almost hidden when the counters were set in place linearly.

My kitchen is not large, and the leathered look seems more attractive to me than the high gloss on an island. Each slab is different and the slabs are cut and numbered sequentially so if you need more than one you have to buy them as a group to get similar looking markings that can match up.

The man who installed it told me no few people are using granite anymore – quartz is the biggest seller because it has many more pros than cons.

I took my old 22-year-old granite from my old kitchen and put it in 2 full bathrooms, counter and shower bench. The cost is just about the same as granite but it never scratches and is green – an important point for us.

Corian is acrilic, therefore it is scratchable and less heat-resistant, but this surface is reparable: it might be polished and dmaged parts could be professionally repeared. Some conglomerates are made up of quartz or granite particulate mixed with a base that holds them together. The problem with using glazed tile for a kitchen surface is that the grout gets dirty, and the surface isn’t entirely smooth. I have a less expensive granite in my new house that has a natural pattern that is not high contrast. My other concern is we have our last design meeting next week and we have to finalize all of our other decisions including kitchen backsplash before actually seeing our granite in person!

One idea for the backsplash is ask for an allowance for what it would cost and then have it done when the time is right either by his guy or find your own tile man. You need to be able to see the whole “picture” and choose something that finishes with a pleasing, aesthetic result. Coffee, wine, cooking oils will sit on top of the surface instead of soaking in so all you have to do is wipe it clean. I love the color of your granite and also like that the pattern/movement in it is a little less busy than some others.

inexpensive kitchen countertops pictures

Source: www.hgtv.com/design/rooms/kitchens/inexpensive-kitchen-countertops
If you’re ready for a change and crave color, check out the next picture to see how adding a new hue to just the cabinets transformed this kitchen. Slab granite counters are literally sliced from quarries, cut to size, and honed down until they are smooth.So we...