I have always put support underneath unless the overhang is 6? or less.

I decided to go directly to the stone experts.

The rectangular piece that goes flat against the wall is cut two inches bigger than the thickness of the triangular piece so you have a surface to screw into. This will give you the added suport while preserving the neet clean lines you desire. I have always used corbelsÂ…but they do get in the way of bar stools at times.

With the proper steel plates, you should be able to get the same support.The granite slab is about as big as you can do without a seam. Size of acceptable overhang depends on size of slab and other factors.

Mine is 12″ unsupported, and fabricator wasn’t at all worried. Perhaps they can explain to you how the cabinets are braced and why they have confidence that the overhang will be ok? Perhaps it’s in part because your cabinetry is wider than 24″, among other things? I would strongly suggest you obtain a written warranty that the entire install (slab / fabrication / labor) is guaranteed not to break for 20 years.


Owner Greg Fox goes over requirements for overhangs in the granite countertop industry. For more, visit …

It will look better and support the integrity of the stone. The second part is what most don’t think about and that is the leverage effect on those cabinets.

Even if the stone holds what is holding the cabinets down? Stand in front of opposite side and have your contractor sit on the counter again and see if the cabinet lifts.

Most likely, this prevents corbels from being located to support overhang. Only metal flat supports placed under the granite will be possible at this stage. That will require removing granite to install some way on top or braced on cabinetry. Sometimes solutions are worse than disease. Regular use and the width of the counterbalance of rest of slab pretty much keeps it ok. I could lop 5″ off, re-profile and polish on site in several hours.

They would need cross bracing, and attaching to the cabinets.

Basically, a table apron type setup, with cross pieces.

Unfortunately the horse is out of the barn and at this point everything gets more expsensive as you are basically doing it twice. I have an island similar to the one in the picture with cabinets under like that – we only store once a year stuff in them as accessibility is cumbersome at best. With these legs in place you should be able to open the doors (22″?) at the ends wide enough to get stuff in and out. Those stretcher bars have to actually attach to the island . I think just a cheap short cut if you asked me. The benefit is you can easily access the cabinets below. I love a kitchen table with normal chairs, and your kitchen looks large enough for that. With a vacuum installed on a grinder, cut 5/8″ deep 30″ long rod slots every 16″ on the cantilevered side. Fill the slots with epoxy, drop in stainless steel rods, and top off with epoxy to flush. Just takes time, equipment, materials, manpower and expertise. We place a 5/16 steel plate under large overhangs like yours and anything 9-12 we use 1/4 x3″ flat steel routed into the top of the cabinet on 36″ centers held back 3-4″ from the edge of the stone. It really begs for a much closer inspection of all of the rest of the work he has done in the home.




The overhang looks extreme and unbalanced. Certain stones that have veins and lines of quartz running through them are fragile. Protect your investment and insist on having the install done right! The top needs to be flipped, rodded, and reinstalled. Because of the doors, this is the most cost effective solution. They were left distressed, but could be easily painted. The back of the cabinets should then be clad with 1/2″ plywood slab. Another layer 1/8″ or 1/4″ of wood should be applied to bring the surface flush with the brackets.

To hide all of this, install dummy cabinet doors over the wood to give a finished appearance. The main reason would be that nobody would be injured if it ever broke. I find it hard to believe that the granite company would put that in without any support. One on each end and 2 in the middle, painted to match the cabinets.

I am unable to see the prior comments, just the problem/discussion problem that someone has posted and then just the last comment. The other big question as someone previously had mentioned is how are the cabinets anchored? You could have the slab re cut and reinforced. I just wanted to put in my two cents: that island just doesn’t “look” right. Even if it is technically safe for that much unsupported overhang, it looks dangerous and off balance. I can see is someone crawling on their hands and knees to access the cabinets.

Shouldn’t the doors have been on the other side and just paneling under the overhang side?


Granite Countertop Support Tips To Prevent Failure Armchair Builder

I had to finish a break on the right top side at the seam too. The painter who stood on this apparently survived his fall, ironically at the home of a personal injury attorney. As others have pointed out, it doesn’t meet industry standards.

Don’t let them off the site without a fix that meets your aesthetic approval. I am an architect and all my experience is with large commercial and institutional work. I can’t believe a painter even tried to stand on that. Corlett, you did do a good repair on those broken corners.

Are you installing a counter depth refrigerator? The “glue” means the granite will only bend if the steel can bend without slipping. The plywood, glued to the granite with caulking (typical install) will add additional support, with the steel being the main support. That full sheet with a cutout behind the stove has no support over the cabinet?Your thought, epoxy the granite to the steel to prevent sliding/flexing. Without epoxy, would that sliding movement be measurable? But once you embed steel into the plywood, the plywood loses its strength thus the counter relies even more on the support of steel. Pony walls framed with partition grade steel studs.

I rehung a vanity sink that had no mechanical fasteners, just silicone, yesterday. You won’t need to do any “repairs’ on my projects.


Your kitchen Island can have the appearance of floating with the Hidden Island Support Bracket from The Original Granite Bracket.

I am in the middle of a remodel and we have a 12″ overhang planned for the granite countertop. That’s the beauty of rodding the top; the doors are unaffected. I notched the drawers and cabinet boxes in several inches.

I believe they lifted the granite off, notched out the cabinet for 4 steel plates and screwed them to a 2×4 and into the top of the cabinet. But for the love of of all things divine, why did they go through all that trouble and not extend the steel to the near outer edge? Your home should be a place of comfort — physical and psychological. Please, cut a good 5 inches off the overhang and be able to sleep in peace! Is this overhang worth the possible risk? I think any insurance adjuster would tell you to not take the risk. If not, it should be painted the color of the wall, to camouflage it visually. I anchored the maple to that so roughly 4″ inside the cabinet.

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I have always put support underneath unless the overhang is 6? or less. I decided to go directly to the stone experts. The rectangular piece that goes flat against the wall is cut two inches bigger than the thickness of the triangular piece so you have a surface to screw...