Due to the gas pipe and plug in the back thr range can’t be pushed all the way to the back. My contractor said that they can’t cut the ceasor stone counter that thinner than 2″.


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It would be a separate piece that would be stuck to the counter on each side. A professional is able to install a piece like this and make it look like continuous with the countertop. I don’t know why they couldn’t do it with a caesarstone, but why would he be lying? Too bad you had to cope with him on your project.Sometimes in the midst of a remodel, it is easy to get caught up in the details and miss the whole. Ask your contractor for a new filler, but keep in mind nothing is going to fit like a glove. I like the metal filler as it blends nicely with the wall and range. I would however ask for a better measured piece. Was it the contractor who installed the counter or was it a stone fabricator? The stove can’t go further back because it has to fit at the front of the counter properly.


Ge Appliances Fit Guarantee Slide In Range Install


For more information, visit www.geappliances.com/range-stove/range-installation.htm. GE Appliance Slide-in ranges are …

They are made to fit against a slim section of countertop. Some, which don’t have the raised section at the back edge, have a lip which tucks over the counter for a smooth three-sided transition with the countertop material. I think though that it looks fine as it is as long as it is level with the cabinets fronts.

My question is what happens if you fill the space with countertop and then you buy a new stove someday? Does every different stove require a different size piece??? Is there a telescoping downdraft that works with a slide in gas range? I needed some advice about putting a granite strip behind a slide-in range. Does anyone have any advice on whether we should put the small strip of granite behind the slide-in range since it does not have a back? I would imagine the granite would also be easier to clean. I think kitchens look much better without it. The previous owner of my house put the strips in my kitchen, but not behind my slide-in stove. You can google “images of kitchen with 4″ backsplash” & look at kitchens with the strip and without one, and then decide which look you prefer. If you do the granite, you need to have a granite fabricator come out and remove that granite bit to be able to do any other kind of range. Plus, you also need to engineer some type of ledger board at the wall for the granite to rest on, and you’ll have two seams to either side. You only get a “notch” in the counter with a slide in if you are willing to have the hole cut on site and pay for all of the waste that you’d be cutting away. It shouldn’t take a competent workman more than 10 minutes to fabricate and install a support ledger board for the granite strip. Your granite has a pattern which should minimize the visibility of the two small seams.

It wasn’t snug against the wall, so there was a slight gap. When we had our granite installed, they added the piece of granite behind the range. It litterally took them 15 minutes to install it, along with support peices.

Kitchen backsplash for behind a slide-in range. Switching to slide in range from free standing range. Well it’s time, my free standing range is dying. I have a 30″ clearance between the counters.


Gap Behind Slide In Gas Range





I would appreciate any info people may have about their slide in range installation. I really would suggest measuring the floor model and comparing it to what you’ve got at home. There could be a gap of an inch or more at the back of the unit (because of the electric plug and/or the gas supply). If you have gap in the back between the wall and the range, you can purchase a filler kit. I wouldn’t purchase a slide in range to replace a free standing one. You will get less for your money with a slide in than a free standing. Most customers that purchase a slide in need it due to the configuration of their kitchen, like an issue with a pass through or an island. Frigidaire makes a filler panel for this gap, called a backguard. This may not work well if you have counter tops with an integrated backslash like laminate that rolls up into a back splash. I just have quartz counter tops, nothing up the wall. I am concerned about the front of the stove on this model. It appears to need a counter that doesn’t extend over the front of the cabinet like mine do. Or need to be notched out (not an option for me). My wife wants a slide-in range but will that work with this existing countertop? One of the main benefits to the overlap is cleanability. Food and crumbs can’t drip down the sides like it can with a freestanding. Also, when you push a slide-in range all the way back, there is about a 2” space behind the range. This allows a built-in look and the capability of being able to showcase your backsplash since there isn’t a backguard blocking it like a freestanding unit. Freestanding models have finished sides so they are a little more flexible with installation.


How To Install Strip Of Granite Behind Slide In Range

Freestanding ranges are available at much lower prices and more selection than the higher priced slide-ins.

The comparable freestanding will also be 10-15% cheaper as well. The only one missing from the slide-in range is a 5th warming element. Convection is a fan that circulates the heat to keep the temperature even throughout the oven so you can cook on multiple levels at one time, as well as cook more quickly. Both ranges also have a built-in temperature probe (internal thermometer meant to measure the internal temperature of meat and poultry) and lastly, a warming drawer to keep foods warm for up to three hours without dehydration like a microwave. I want to point these models out because they have features that are exclusive to them. In addition to the 5th burner featured on both of these models, you will also find full extension glide racks in the oven as well as the lower drawer being a second oven. Anything you can fit in the lower oven you can cook since the lower oven drawer has a separate temperature control that is capable of going up to 450 degrees.

As you can see, slide-in ranges are more expensive than freestanding ranges to a varying degree depending on the manufacturer. So really the choice becomes style and cleanability versus price. The installation is not a simple change out due to the different configurations.Check the specs to either add/subtract the filler and check the instructions as well. You must either find a way to install apiece of counter top behind your range or purchase a metal filler strip that will fill this gap. If you try to install a slide-in range without this filler strip you will see a hole behind your range. You must have this piece of countertop removed before you install your free standing range. If you install a free standing range where a slide-in range used to sit, chances are you will see a large gap behind the backguard of the range. The unit will be pushed into the kitchen by a couple of inches as well.


Vance Counter Trim Kit


Fill the space between counter and appliances with the Vance Stainless Steel Counter Trim Kit.

Some slide-ins require the cabinets to be notched. We’ll attach technical data about this session to help us figure out the issue. Which of these best describes the problem? Danny has completed 2 half marathons and enjoys spending time travelling and snowboarding. We make every attempt to provide accurate pricing at time of publishing. Please call the stores for most accurate price. How to install strip of granite behind slide in range. Just getting my ducks in a row before thinking about new range. We have granite countertops and a normal free standing range. We are contemplating switching to a slide in range. This results in a gap between the range and the wall. We want to fill it with matching granite. Unfortunatly the salespeople at the granite place are clueless about the actual install.They’d done orders like this and sold pieces many times but people usually paid for install too or just never asked. They had no idea and said they’d never actually talked to the install people. Metal instead of plastic/wood due to any heat issues.

Then a bead of silicone along the bottom and top to hold it against the wall. If there are no studs heavy duty wall anchors will work. If the backsplash goes onto tile then you will have a bit of gap where the layer of adhesive is and you will have to caulk it to cover gap. If the backsplash sits under where the tile ends then you just need some clear caulk to seal the joint. Most contractors will use clear silicone to seal backsplashes to counter tops if they are the same colour. Heat against your wall shouldn’t be an issue unless your element sits right beside the wall but you can skip the wood support and just have a screw sticking out like you were hanging a picture. Not the cleanest looking if anyone was to look but it would work. Now dry fit the piece and see if you need any shims to level the joint. Put silicone in blobs maybe 5-6 of them evenly across the wood. Put a bead on both sides of existing countertop joints.

Drop in the back filler and level it best you can. Get a razor blade and push some silicone over the joints.

The granite place has to fill similar gaps when there are seams.

They’re completely separate from the install guys who are essentially never at the store. They were great during the install though. Yes i watched them mix up a bunch of black epoxy, fill the seam and use a razor blade to scrape it clean and flat in the end. Or get some clear and add black iron oxide powder. It will come off polished surfaces easily. Make sure to clean joining surfaces with acetone prior to remove any dust/oils that will hinder adherence. I now have the piece and can properly express exactly what i’m tryign to do/fix. Filling the seam is purely cosmetic so that when i clean/wipe along this area there isn’t a place for grime to get stuck in. The problem is now that i have a small tapered edge on the existing countertop. The new piece is cut with perfect 90 degree angles.

I don’t actually care that i fill down into the whole seam. See image that is a side view of the joint. One side of me says i want a hard material (epoxy) so the surface is smooth to wipe across.

Thinking about it now i probably don’t care if it’s black or clear. I worry that this fill will eventually crack and pop out though. The other side of me wants to use black silicone because it’s easier. This won’t crack but i wonder if constantly wiping across it will catch/snag on the rubbery texture and pull it out.
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Due to the gas pipe and plug in the back thr range can't be pushed all the way to the back. My contractor said that they can't cut the ceasor stone counter that thinner than 2'. It would be a separate piece that would be stuck to the counter on...