While cement backer board can also be cut using a circular saw, it makes for a very dusty job, so work outside and be sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses. Fitting the substrate around the stove will vary depending on the type of cooking surface you have. Once the grout has dried thoroughly, apply a high quality sealer to the seams to prevent stains. I either have to skip the backer board or skip the decorative bullnose pieces and do the edge like the above example. I have to extend the backer board to the outer edges of the top where the arm rail will be attached, or just under the granite tiles?

Do we still need to use cement backer board if we won’t be butting full tiles up against each other?

I have laid tile over tile after distressing the surface of the tile being covered, this worked well so far on the shower floor.

Given the large size and the fact that you can’t break the granite with a mallet to remove small pieces at a time, we haven’t made any progress. After removal, it was apparent that the opening for the cooktop was out of square and slightly undersized for the original cooktop. Side to side will require 1/8 inch or less removed only in certain places, but not along the full length.

Use a dark granite with dark grout and this will give you the best “solid slab” appearance. Yes you always need backer board, even over formica, it gives tile/granite a firm backing to prevent flexing and causing breakage. I don’t see how adding a thin strip of granite would work, since the part of the bullnose that hangs down over the cabinet is about 1″ thick. Sarcasm aside, please understand that some of us like to do some jobs for ourselves that are performed by professionals. The top is not level and the installers said that they usually have an 1/8 to 1/4 inch “run off” in case of spills?

The salesperson where we purchased the tile said that if we didn’t want grout lines, we would place the tiles in thin set, and then run a line of silicone caulking between the tiles, before butting them together.

They have regular 4×4 ceramic tile now, they want to know if they can just break off the old tile, remove the old thinset and lay down a new layer of thinset and lay the new granite?

If we install the plywood first and the the backerboard will this hold the tile okay or is there a chance of it cracking or breaking?

Besides, the little counter top (~24″x36″)can be used on an accent table or coffee table or outside counter or sold. I put down 2 layers of 3/4″ plywood and then put 1/4″ backerboard on top of the cabinets. I cut even sized strips to hide the thickness of the counter and butted them up against the underside of the bullnose with no gap. After the grout you could run a plate or glass along it and hear/feel it hitting the edges. We had color matched it prior to the stripper and you almost couldn’t see it (even close up). For stubborn stains, you can use the solvent acetone (it’s highly flammable, so extinguish open flames and provide plenty of ventilation) as a cleaner and to remove any contact cement residue. This stuff is not fool proof people, some of us have a capability of working with our hands and understanding how and having a feeling for how to do these things, some do not.

I did this as the pre-fab prescott edging did not allow for 3/4″ and 3/4″ without showing wood at the bottom. They installed the tile as you did, but rather than plan an overhang for the edge tile, the tile just ends. Is there anywhere you can buy a plastic or fiberglass edging in colors that’s easy to cut that would really look nice?

The point of tearing it off of your existing cabinets is to be sure and double sure that your project is going to be successful. Depot guy said the closest thing that he could think of was color-matching the grout color to the granite. We plan to install a granite top on the pass through to create a kitchen bar with a slight (2″) overhang into the dining room. Has anyone tried just sanding the top of the formica counter tops and than laying the granite tiles right over it?

Even if it is not in perfect condition, if it is repairable, you may still be able to do it.

I still have another countertop to do and was looking for a better quality thinset, one that is easy to work with that will result in even tiles throughout.

The mattress in the bedroom is terrible and the ceiling fan sounds like it’s going to fall off the ceiling.

The upper bedrooms sleeps two, and the main level bedroom sleeps one but has a desk and a couch in the room. You will have a mini kitchen with refrigerator toaster microwave blender and dishes with utensils. Airbnb на телефоне или планшете. Airbnb на телефоне или планшете.

As an alternative, the plywood substrate can be screwed from underneath to brackets or a ledger strip located inside the cabinets.

Screw the cement board to the plywood, being sure to countersink the screws below the surface.

Use a rubber padded grout float to force the grout into the seams, then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge.

The granite tile bullnose edge pieces are not deep enough to cover the 1″ plus thickness.

I have, has to do with the chicago style bar rail that will be butted up against the granite tile.

The top is a small pennisula with a slide-in oven so we only need one width of tile to go around the oven and partial tiles to fill in the corner next to the wall and cabinet. On word of caution, marble is a soft material, porous and will stain easily even with sealer. I would suggest a slow methodical process with cleanup as you go, don’t get in a rush. The epoxy dries to a very hard glass finish and will not stain or allow moisture to pass through it. To achieve the desired squareness some material on the inside edge will need to be removed. I would additionally on top of this use ditra backer as it creates a solid floating substrate that resists movement from below and will prevent cracking. Not sure where some of these people get their info, but if you want your tile to last and look professional, cutting corners on the foundation of the tiles is not the place to do it. I really wanted a solid granite kitchen counter top for semi-new solid wood kitchen, but after reading (nearly)all these posts, am willing to use large black granite tiles with matching grout, as we’ve already some tiling experience.

Perhaps making it so the bullnose rests ontop of and over the wood edging and the wood edging is flush with the cabinet (plus its thickness) if that makes sense (so yo don’t have an awkward wood sliver hanging down below the bullnose)- does that make any sense?

Matching the grout color as close as possible to the tile was the best way to give it that one piece look. It is supported on the back wall, the side wall, and then continues over the top of base cabinets.

This will look better and provide a more waterproof joint than trying to cut the tile around the sink. I had a shop polish the edges before install and noticed the bottom edge is not smooth due to the tile itself. Just buy about 6 extra tiles and an extra sheet of plywood and do a small “mock” counter to get the hang of what you are about to do. It will be worth your time to do this step and learn the process and hit any pitfalls before you get into the permanent work. I installed a backsplash board thick enough to allow two 12″ tiles to cover the counter without having to cut any thin pieces.

When the initial tiles were put in the installer didn’t do a very good job of making sure they were even. If you look at the tiles from an angle it looks like they are unpolished or have water spots.

The stripper also appears to have eaten away at the grout, as several spots are recessed and jagged edges are exposed. As the son of a 55 year cabinet and tile professional who also knows how to do this stuff you are incorrect in your assumptions here about the instructions.

I make a normal size backing to the the countertops like the ones you see on formica or laminate countertops?

It’s not that the thinset won’t stick, it’s that it won’t stick nearly as long. I can see the edge of the tile and below that is the backer board covered with what appears to be mesh drywall joint tape and some sort of adhesive.

To all the people that have existing counter tops and want to use them as a base for their project. If everything seems good and sturdy, follow through by screwing the backer to the fornica.
In addition to screwing it down, a bead of construction adhesive between the cement board and old countertop wouldn’t hurt. I would like to get some coaching on how to best support the install on what is now only about a 5″ wide surface.

The surface now feels gritty and need to remove the gritty feel before applying the 2nd coat. As a result, now that the countertop is “set” my wife notices that some of the tiles are uneven. The place was clean, everything worked, and we had a kitchen which allowed us to save extra time and money from eating out. Located on a main street in a very safe neighbourhood with access to multiple bus routes right outside the front door. The house is exactly like the pictures, plenty of parking available, overall a great experience!

The mattress in the bedroom is terrible and the ceiling fan sounds like it’s going to fall off the ceiling. Airbnb. Airbnb.





black galaxy granite

Source: www.stonev.com/show.asp?pidu003d721u0026codeu003dSL519u0026stoneu003dBlack%20Galaxy%20Slab
https://www.marble-restoration.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/black-galaxy-granite.jpghttps://www.marble-restoration.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/black-galaxy-granite-150x150.jpggenaGranite
While cement backer board can also be cut using a circular saw, it makes for a very dusty job, so work outside and be sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses. Fitting the substrate around the stove will vary depending on the type of cooking surface...